November 26, 2013

The Cherry Duck, Bristol

It is becoming of increasing importance that all elements of dining out are catered for by a restaurant. Prices are on the up and money is not exactly in surplus right now, so when I go out for a meal I want to be looked after and feel like I am getting my money’s worth.

My most recent search for hospitality took me to a new face to the waterfront area of Welshback, the Cherry Duck. This intimate venue, overlooking the harbour, seemed the perfect place for a romantic meal for two. A table was booked for 8pm and when we arrived we were escorted to the far end of the restaurant to a table next to the window looking out onto the water. We were immediately brought water and menus by a very attentive member of staff. Two courses will set you back around £22 and it’s £28 for three (plus supplements for certain dishes). The menu is not over elaborate with dishes from every corner of the globe, nor is it the pretentious offerings you see every now and then that are described by giving a short list of key ingredients leaving you to fill in the blanks. Four starters, four mains, four puds, a simple bistro style affair. On top of this there was an extensive wine and beer list including some decent craft beers and my favourite autumn/winter tipple Bristol Beer Factory Milk Stout. 

The waitress came to take our order and offered some of their homemade bread, tonight’s was a wholemeal option with fig throughout the mix served with olive oil from an estate the owner had personally visited, we were informed. I ordered a starter of smoked duck breast served with a small fig tart followed by a venison dish with the meat cooked two ways and served with a potato fondant, baby beets and heritage carrots. My wife choose a blue cheese and parsnip beignets starter and a crispy duck egg, salsify and gnocchi main. Whilst these menu options definitely reflect a lighter option vs. a winter warmer, both choices were incredibly flavoursome and satisfying. The slow cooked ‘stew’ of venison was delicious. Warming star anise subtle enough to let the meat stand out served alongside a rare steak and buttery vegetables, certainly worth the supplement. On the other side of the table a light, crisp gnocchi with a perfectly cooked, runny yolked egg to add depth to the dish and pickled salsify to cut through the richness. The Cherry Duck is clearly in the business of serving up extremely well cooked, interesting food with great flavour combinations. It is clear to see why this place received the ‘highly commended’ spot in the Bristol Good Food Awards 2013 for the best newcomer category.

If you are looking for somewhere to go with a smaller group of foody friends or family this is an excellent choice, however, I would really recommend it as a place to take you partner. The mood was chilled out with music at the level that you can hear but is not intrusive. The place has a very warm and appealing atmosphere aided by relaxed but attentive service. All in all the Cherry Duck is a most welcome edition to an area of Welshback that seems to struggle to hold onto restaurants for any period of time. I hope this place can put a stop to that and is here to stay as I will certainly be back for more.

See more reviews at www.mattsgoodthings.co.uk

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